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This kit includes detailed instructions for easy installation

Kurt Shafer here, the inventor of this kit. I spent a lot of time looking into materials and sources and ways to cut the garage door openings. I made my first windows out of 1/8 inch thick plastic sheet and then paid a lot of money to have aluminum frames cut and drilled to go around the edge of the plexiglass.

I used an air powered sheet metal cutter to cut holes in my garage door and then I drilled holes in the plexiglass and the garage door for screws and nuts to hold them all in place. I had to hire a helper to hold the screws on the outside while I put nuts on them inside the garage.

But since then I have created a far better design and found much better tools.

  1. I increased the thickness to 1/4 in plexi. Now I can GUARANTEE they cannot be broken.
  2. I eliminated the expensive metal frame. I find that painting a frame on the plexi looks just as good and saves a lot of money.
  3. I found a sheet metal cutter that works with any electric drill to slash the cost and not require an air compressor.
  4. I started using rivet nuts in the door to save time and make the install much easier.

So the total cost of tools is under $30 and the installation is very simple.



First are the windows themselves. I found that when cut to 12 inches high and 16 inches wide then 4 of them fit in half of my 2 car garage door. 8 fit across the entire door. That is what you see in the picture above this page. And you get thick 1/4 inch plexi – did you know that is what is used on golf carts?

Then the hardware – the latest and easiest hardware to use are rivet nuts. Here is what they look like-


This is what the rivnut looks like after squeezing it with the rivnut tool.

The rivnut tool pulls a small threaded rod called a “mandrel” to squeeze the rivnut body against the sheet steel door.


The rivet nuts and screws are all threaded to #8-32 which means they are .164 inch in diameter with 32 threads per inch. These are easy to get anywhere. If you have a singlesided door it is thin like the picture above so the 3/4 inch long screws you get will be perfect. If you have a 2 sided door with foam insulation inside, you will want to get screws long enough to go through the thicker door. Below is a diagram of the installation in a thick door. You have the choice to cut a wooden spacer so that you can tighten the screws and not crush the foam in your door or you can put a thread locking fluid in the rivet nut to hold the screw in perfect tension without coming out.

Installation guide for cutting door and installing rivnuts

The door is cut using a “nibbler” that is driven by any electric drill you might have. Here is a picture of one in use by me.

Note this head is cutting at right angle to the drill center line
This is the one I bought – note the two heads – one cuts parallel to the center line of the drill the other cuts perpendicular to it…..